Like a mini St Ives, Polperro is a pretty fishing village full of tiny buildings and windy cobbled streets. In 2023 it was named Britain’s ‘coolest place to live’. Personally I think it was probably cooler back in the 18th century when the legendary Zephaniah Job – AKA The Smugglers’ Banker – ran the place.
Originally a teacher, Zephaniah Job stepped in to help smugglers with their books before opening his own bank, through which passed £100,000 a year. He was key to the success of this little fishing village and very well-respected. When he died, all his incriminating papers and ledgers were burnt in a demonstration of village solidarity.
The home of Zephaniah Job is now the Crumplehorn Inn, pictured above.
The main jewel of Polperro for me though is Polperro tide pool. Hidden beneath towering craggy rocks, at low tide its tranquil waters contrast beautifully with the wild sea beyond.
To find it, head through the village and to the right of the harbour as you enter it. Follow the coast path up the steps by the Blue Peter pub, through the houses and around the headland towards Polruan and you will see an old building, perched on the cliff. Once thought to be a chapel, this listed building, The Net Loft, was restored by the National Trust and is now used as a gallery. Below this, and only visible a few hours either side of low tide, sits the stunning Polperro tide pool. Access is via some very steep steps, or by a scramble down the rocks, but the popular pool is deep enough to jump into and beautifully secluded. The pool can get busy during the holidays, but visit out of season and you’ll often have it to yourself. (These photos are from a chilly March visit.)
Point to note: there are no cars in the village, and you’ll need to park in the (very expensive) cash-only car park at the top, so remember your change!
Similar spots: another top tidal pool ~ Trevone
