As an improver surfer you put endless pressure on yourself – I need to paddle out back, I should be popping up faster, I should surf bigger, longer waves, I shouldn’t get stuck surfing the white water …
And there are endless anxieties too: I’m not catching anything, I’m in people’s way, I ruined that wave, everyone thinks I shouldn’t be here…
Lately I’ve been disheartened with my surfing, but while taking a recent surf trip where the waves were wild and the wind was sideways, and I spent A LOT of time in the white water, I realised:
Sometimes it’s good to take a break and just remember what surfing is all about – that freedom, happiness that the ocean brings.
Here are 5 reasons you should chill, hang back, and go surfing the white water:
1️⃣ The vibe is so high! Everyone is smiling and cheering each other on.
2️⃣ It’s a great place to practise skills – pop-ups, turns etc.
3️⃣ You can give your arms a little break and get those legs working
4️⃣ If you’re with friends you can all be together regardless of ability
5️⃣ Every wave is a party wave!
So if the conditions are bad, or you’re feeling disheartened, give yourself a break, catch some choppy white water and remember why you’re out there. It’s supposed to be fun!
If you like this: Sisters of the Sea ~ The Story
